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Your Guide To Growing strawberries | Planting Strawberries

   If you want a more comprehensive guide on growing strawberries, sign up for our newsletter as we will be releasing a how to guide soon on growing strawberries from start to finish. 

If you love strawberries and have decided to grow your own this year you are in luck. Strawberries are a pretty easy breed of plant to undertake. Other than some fertilizing at intervals throughout the year and a bit of trimming they are pretty maintenance free whether in the ground or in baskets—from which they grow very well. They also over winter easily through zone 10 so there is a good chance you can enjoy strawberries year after year.

How to Start Growing Strawberries: :

In areas where the soil can be worked early-March through April, start in early spring to work a good fertilizer into the ground at least 6-8” along with any other particular soil needs (often this means lime to ensure the pH can be maintained from 5.0-7.0). A good fertilizer would be 10-10-10 which is equal parts of nitrogen, potassium & phosphorous. For those who are wishing to keep their crops organic by mixing the formula themselves this translates to blood meal, potash and bone meal.

For ever bearing strawberries which produce at least twice (June & late summer/early fall) you will want to fertilize again between these two fruit bearing times. For those who live where weather permits or where there is a greenhouse, ever bearings will produce up to three times per year starting in the early spring. The same fertilizing schedule can be followed however.
#1     The  First Year        #2
For first year plantings it is better to trim off all flowers and aid any runners that might want to form. This gives the plant time to develop and become established. Though this is hard-everyone wants that first strawberry, it will greatly benefit the plant and the fruit will be well worth the effort. (Myself? I chose not to because they were so cute!! But my crop suffered with small fruits that were only slightly sweet—see picture #2.) In picture #3 I had strawberries but they were small and misshapen; in #4 which was taken the next fruit producing cycle the fruits were nicely shapes, very red and tasted so well I had to guard them against my grandchildren.

You can see also that each plant has flowers, budding fruits and fruit ready to be picked all at the same time as it should be. As for the runners strawberry plants provide to increase your plant population each year, they do not do as well. Many more dry up and die before they get established in the ground next to their mother plant. See picture #5.
#3           #4           #5

Simple Planting Strawberry Steps:

When planting, rows should be at least 3 feet (4 is better) from each other and the plant no closer than 18” apart—though 24” is best. Water each plant once it is in the ground and it would not hurt to apply mulch at this time as well as it affords protection and also provides nutrients as it break down. I said simple, and easy as well.

Your only precaution while planting should be care of the young plants crown located on the top from which the new growth comes. Though this area can get wet it should never stand in water. Plant with this in mind—not in depressions but in slight mounds

What Strawberries to Plant:

As for the type, everyone has their favorites and most strawberries are just plain good. Many varieties produce big berries but sacrifice on flavor and the hardiness of the plants. Good all around strawberries such as Ozark Beauty, Ogallala and Tillicum have smaller fruit but they are like eating little bites of sugar, and the plants are much more durable under many of the different growing conditions of the various regions. For jams, tarts and such that involve heat or that you will sugar anyway, try Gem.

When to Plant Strawberries:

Most plant and seed catalogs advertize strawberries in their spring catalogs—many in multiples of 25. For climates that get really cold—like the ground freezes for days or weeks at a time cold, it is best to plant in the spring a few days after your plants arrive in the mail.

For warmer climates you may also plant in the spring but you have the option of fall planting as well. It works out well really, as the plants have time to become established before winter sets in and can begin fruiting in the spring. The great thing about strawberries is they are pretty resilient even if you do not get everything right.

 About Hanging Baskets:

Strawberry plants are one of the easiest plants to stick in a basket, step back and let grow. Start with a solid pot filled with a mixture of peat moss (2qts), & equal parts of perlite and vermiculite (1/4qt). This is a light-weight mixture that will retain water well.

Plant new starts in a hole you have dug that is big enough to spread the root ball in—about 2-4 inches deep. Cover; packing plants slightly. Water well; being careful not to leave the crown of the plant in standing water. Hang in an area where you do not have to worry about the intense afternoon sun. Gradually bring plants into full sun after a few days of shade. This will allow the plants to establish and harden off enough so that they are not scorched while in a tender state.

Growing Strawberry Don’ts:
Strawberries should not be planted around plants belonging to the nightshade family-tomatoes, peppers or eggplant, as the bacteria and viruses of the latter can be transferred easily to the strawberries. Strawberries should not be planted in the same soil after nightshades have occupied it as these same menaces can remain in the soil for several seasons to come. On the other hand, strawberries can adversely affect plants belonging to the cabbage family.

If you want a more comprehensive guide on growing strawberries, sign up for our newsletter as we will be releasing a how to guide soon on growing strawberries step by step

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