How To Grow Raspberries: Growing Raspberries And Planting Raspberries

Ripe Raspberries    

 While all aspects of growing raspberries are equally important choosing the spot for your canes will possibly take the most thought. Raspberry plants love the full sun and will not flourish without it—at least 6 hours through-out the main growing season.
While you can start raspberries from seeds chances are you will not be happy with the results. Most plants are obtained through propagation when new canes shoot from established stems (actually produced from buds in the roots). Once these new canes establish roots of their own they are cut away from the mother plant.

Growing Raspberries: Soil Preparation and Moisture

Raspberry  canes prefer a  rich , organic matter in their soil—one that has plenty of nutrients. Adding organic matter in the form of compost is a good way of helping them help you increase your harvest. Mulch annually will then be the best way to maintain your crop—about 5 pounds per square yard.  Spring is a good time an ounce each of sulphate of ammonia and phosphate along with a half ounce potash per same amount of space as above. The patch should have even moisture levels with good drainage—especially while plants are young, otherwise they will produce sour fruits. On the other hand, raspberry roots are prone to rot, so take care as there is no cure.

Growing Raspberries: Planting

Plant new canes in rows that are at least 4 feet from each other. Raspberries can be planted 4-6 canes per square foot in the early autumn—actually the best time to plant, then clear out unwanted or weak canes in the spring. They do better with support so plan for this in the spring. Many people like using a fence or a wall with trellises that faces full sun.
When planting in the fall do not cover roots more than 3 inches making sure plants are firmly in the ground. Once planted the canes should be cut back to about 2 feet. You can then rake soil making sure the ground is broken up.

    Foliage & Berries

 Growing Raspberries—the Pruning Part:

Mulch thoroughly the following early spring. When you see the new buds swelling cut canes back yet another time to ensure that no fruiting takes place (to about 10 inches)—allow a bud or two to remain in order to keep the roots active. This is especially true for the first year. This method of trimming will ensure that new shoots will sprout and grow out from the roots. Raspberries will fruit on the woody canes first and then the new growth so once the new growth is becoming established you should cut the old original cane out.
After its second growing season—fruiting completed, all the canes can be cut to the ground. New canes will automatically come up now. All new canes should be tied to their stakes or to horizontal wires.

                                                                 Raspberry Canes      

Growing Raspberries: The Problems

Raspberry plants are fairly susceptible to blights—such as fire-blight caused by funguses, and diseases (gall-small plant tumors) caused by bacteria. Mosaic viruses thanks to aphids can damage plants as well. Removing infected plants or plant parts and destroying them by fire is of the upmost importance. The raspberry borer can be another problem. They cause the ends of the canes to look as if they  to look as if they are wilting. Cut the tips of the cane away burning the infected discards. You will want to below the bottom ring a few inches to make sure the borer is discarded as well, otherwise, it can and will bore to the bottom and kill your plant.